Today we begin a new adventure in Peru, the Salkantay Trek.
Laguna Humantay
We decided to do the 5-day Salkantay trek on our own, although you can also do it with an agency. When we looked into it months ago, the minimum prices were around $250 per person (not including entrance to Machu Picchu or the return train), but according to other travellers, in September 2025 they were paying just over €400 per person (including entrance to Machu Picchu and the return train).
On our own, we spent about 200$ for the two of us, including meals and initial transport (55 soles per person in a tourist van), the return train (€80 per person) and the entrance to Machu Picchu (US$51) are not included in that calculation.
One advantage of using agencies is that you only carry what you need for the day in your backpack and the rest of your luggage is carried by mules. However, if you go on your own, you have to carry all your luggage during the trek, but don't worry because we'll give you some tips on how to pack your backpack for the Salkantay Trek.
Salkantay trek
Route
The total distance is about 75 kilometres with more than 4,500 metres of accumulated elevation gain spread over 5 stages. It's tough, yes, but it can be done.
Tips
Remember to bring water for the first day and cash, although you can pay by card at our accommodations in Soraypampa, Lucmabamba and Aguas Calientes.
The trail is well marked throughout all stages and there are always people doing it. If you get tired, you always have the option of hiring a horse for the first two stages and/or hiring transport for the next two.
There are restaurants and snack and drink shops at every stage. Many plantations have stalls selling fruit, juices and local products.
Walking sticks are important but not essential. You cannot hire them along the route because it is linear, but you can hire them in Cuzco.
Do not carry excess weight in your rucksack. At 4,000 metres, what weighs 4 kilos feels like 8 kilos.
Map
There are several options for getting to the starting point of the Salkantay Trek. The shared van from Cuzco to Mollepata costs 30 soles per person, and another to Soraypampa costs 25 soles per person. The tourist van costs 55 soles per person. The advantage of the tourist van is that they pick you up at your accommodation, breakfast is included, it goes directly to the starting point, and it doesn't take as long to leave.
They pick us up at 3:30 a.m., but we have to wait for more people, so we don't leave Cuzco until 4:20 a.m.
It takes almost three hours to get to Soraypampa. In Mollepata, we stop to pay the tourist tax of 20 soles per person, which is the only tax you have to pay during the entire trip.
A little further on, we stop for breakfast. Breakfast buffet with eggs, fruit, cereal, bread, butter, jam, avocado and muña tea.
When we got close to Soraypampa, we split from the group to get to our hostel and drop off our backpacks. They advised us to wait for the tour groups to come down from Lake Humantay so we could visit it more peacefully.
The day was very cloudy and it rained on and off, so we had a hot drink while we waited.
Humantay peak
We stayed at Soraypampa Hostel next to the path leading up to the lake. It is a complex of dome-shaped houses and shared rooms around a courtyard with views of Nevado Salkantay. The place is very clean and the staff are very friendly. Shared room with breakfast and dinner included for $19 for both of us.
People start to come down and the weather clears up. We eat a sandwich before heading up. In the dining room, we meet Sergio and Mirella (from Barcelona), a guy from Chicago and another from Milan (who are doing the trek together) and Marco and Maia, a lovely Slovenian couple. We will share great moments with all of them on the trek.
Laguna Humantay
Humantay Lake is located at an altitude of 4,200 metres, so you have to climb slowly. It's a good way to acclimatise, as Soraypampa is at 3,900 metres.
It takes about an hour to get there. The path is easy and you can't get lost. As always, you have the option of going up on horseback, but we came to walk.
Humantay Lake owes its name to the Humantay snow-capped mountain, which is over 5,000 metres high. It is one of the most beautiful places on the entire trek, and the reflection of the mountains on the lake is breathtaking. You can breathe in the peace and tranquillity, even when pieces of glacier fall down the mountain. Distance: 3,94 km, elevation gain: 350 metres.
We meet Sergio and Mirella, who are also staying at the same hostel. While we are talking to them, a couple appears who are cleaning up the area of rubbish and things that are not rubbish, because they take Joaquín's walking sticks without us noticing. By the time we realise, they have already left. It seems unbelievable that you can be in the middle of the mountains and there are people like that...
Laguna Humantay
When we go down, we tell the hostel owner, who knows exactly who they are, and ask her to call them, but we don't get anywhere.
The sunset is beautiful, the mountains are clear of clouds and the sky is starry.
We have dinner at 6 pm. They advise us to leave before 6 am tomorrow, as tomorrow's stage is the longest of the trek.
We have soup, rice with textured soy protein, and chicha morada jelly for dinner. We share our dinner with a very nice German couple from Munich.
We're not sure if we'll find a restaurant to eat at tomorrow, so we decide to buy two tortilla sandwiches for 8 soles each.
Atardece en el Salkantay
- Day 1: Cuzco – Soraypamapa
- Day 2: Soraypampa – Chaullay
- Day 3: Chaullay – Llucmabamba
- Day 4: Llucmabamba – Aguas Calientes
- Day 5: Aguas Calientes – Machu Picchu
Transport from Cuzco to Soraypampa 55 soles/person
Accommodation in Soraypampa, shared room with dinner and breakfast for $19 for two people
Ham and cheese sandwich 10 soles
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