Morocco day 21. Chefchauen and Tanger

Submitted by maria on Fri, 27/09/2024 - 14:23

Chefchaouen is located in a privileged enclave.

Chefchauen

Chefchaouen

 

 

The city is surrounded by mountains and offers hiking routes to suit all tastes. The most popular excursions from Chefchaouen are a visit to the Akchur Waterfalls and the Talamante National Park.

 

It's rainy today so we decide to visit the Spanish Mosque, the best viewpoint in Chefchaouen, and leave for Tangier before lunch.

 

Chefchauen

Chefchaouen

 

 

We have breakfast at Food Mounir again, eggs with cheese and olives and mint tea for 35dh/pax.

 

Vistas

Views

 

 

To get to the Spanish Mosque, go to the Bab el Onsar gate and walk down to the river. There are several juice sellers in this area.

 

Mezquita Española

Spanish Mosque

 


From the river there is a path a couple of kilometres to the Mosque.  The views are very cool.


Outside the Medina, on Thursdays, there is a market on Maghreb Avenue. It's worth a stroll.

 

Chefchauen

Chefchaouen

 

 

We pick up our things and take a taxi to the grand taxi rank to negotiate our transport to Tangier. The taxi rank is next to the bus station. We pay 500dh for the four of us, our backpacks are big and no one else can go in the taxi. He tells us that this price includes the fare to our accommodation in Tangier. The grand taxis only stop at the taxi ranks designated for them. It worked out badly for us because the stop in Tangier was only a minute's walk from our accommodation.

 

Tanger

Tangier

 


Our driver was a terrible driver, looking at his mobile phone, watching videos on social networks, letting go of the steering wheel.... He stopped twice, once to pray and once to eat, but the second time he didn't even tell us.

 

He dropped us off next to the Tropicana café, next to our accommodation. We stayed in a flat in the Batouta neighbourhood next to the municipal beach.

It has a bedroom and living room with sofa bed, kitchen and bathroom. Simple and well located. A hundred metres away there is a Carrefour and a liquor shop called el Rojito (a bottle of red wine costs around 53dh).


From our accommodation to the Medina it is a twenty minute walk along the promenade.

 

Muralla

Tangier

 

 

The city of Tangier is located in the north of Morocco on the Strait of Gibraltar, a strategic enclave of great importance between Africa and Europe. Tangier was a Spanish protectorate until the independence of Morocco in 1956, and it is common to see the names of the streets written in Spanish.


In Tangier you can pay in many places with Euros, no need to change money. They speak a lot of Spanish so it's easy to understand. There are daily ferries from the mainland to the port of Tangier from 40€/pax. Flights are also very cheap.

 

Gato

Cat

 

 

What to visit in Tangier


1. Medina. The old city of Tangier has not lost its essence, a labyrinth of narrow white streets full of life next to mosques and souks.

 

Medina

Medina

 

 

Tangier has been a favourite place for artists and writers since the 1950s. There are many references to artists who arrived in the 20th century in search of inspiration, such as the painter Matisse and Delacroix, and writers such as Virginia Woolf and Truman Capote. It is said that the Beat Generation came here in search of a literary aura.

 

Tanger

Tangier

 

 

You will be approached by many fake guides who will tell you stories about musicians like the Rolling Stones who came to Tangier in search of new rhythms and sounds. Café Baba is the most famous.


2. Kasbah or Alcazaba. This ancient white fortification is located on the top of the hill, inside the Medina. It is a group of interconnected buildings, many of which have now been converted into hotels. You can enter the kasbah through the Bab Kasbah gate and lose yourself in its labyrinthine streets, or from the outside, along the Avenue d'Italia.

 

Tanger

Tangier

 


Next to Bab Kasbah is the Ben Amar tower and the Ibn Battouta museum.  Inside the Kasbah there are also mosques, the main one dating from the 17th century, in the old medina. The Sufi current dedicates songs to their prayer and it is very beautiful to listen to.

 

In the highest part, next to the Kasbha square, is the former governor's palace, Dar el Makhzen, which has been converted into a museum, and the Dar Shorfa palace, home to the archaeological museum. Next to them, the Bab Bhar gate gives access to a beautiful viewpoint overlooking the port of Tangier and the Llalla Abla mosque.

 

Mezquita

Mosque

 

 

3. The ramparts. The ramparts surrounding the Kasbah and delimiting the old town were erected by the Portuguese.

 

Murallas

Ramparts

 

 

4. Small souk and large souk.

The large souk, known as Place 9 April, is located next to Bab Al Fahs, the gateway to the Medina. This is where Mohammed V declared the independence of the northern provinces in 1947. This huge square decorated with palm trees is surrounded by emblematic buildings such as the Cinema Rif and the Sidi Bou Abib mosque.

 

Zoco Grande

Big Souk

 

 

The small souk, located next to the Grand Mosque, is a quiet place to enjoy a cup of mint tea. The Central café is famous, but you can enjoy a nice juice or tea on any of its terraces.


5. Mendoubia Garden. Located next to the Bab Al Fahs gate, it houses a space dedicated to the history of Tangier's independence.

 

Bab Al Fahs

Bab Al Fahs

 

 

6. Visit the Central Market. Next to the souk Grande you will find this authentic market where the locals do their shopping.

7. Port and Beaches. Tangier's beaches are noted for their cleanliness. They are large, with calm waters. You can ride horses or camels, go swimming or simply take a stroll.

 

Puerto

Port

 

 

For lunch we recommend two very authentic restaurants

Restaurant Walili. Traditional Moroccan food on a budget. 142dh four menu of chicken with potatoes and olives and water.

Restaurant El Amrani. Very cheap traditional Moroccan food.  Two harira soups and a chicken tajine with vegetables 60dh.

 

Tanger

Tangier

 

 

Don't forget to try the juices and smoothies, at the Salmoun Cafeteria, next to the wall near the Continental Hotel, they have a delicious avocado and dried fruit one, remember to ask for it without ice (3 mint teas and an avocado juice 55dh).


Petit taxi from the Place du Parador to the grand taxi rank 10dh/pax

Grand taxi from Chefchaouen to Tangier 500 dhh 4 pax only for us

Accommodation in Tangier flat in Batouta quarter 93.66€/two nights with Airbnb

Lunch at Walili restaurant. Affordable traditional Moroccan food. 142dh four chicken menu with potatoes and olives and water.