Nepal day 18: Bhaktapur | Perfect Planet

Submitted by maria on Fri, 15/12/2023 - 10:47

We are going to Bhaktapur for a few days.

Kathmandu

Many people visit this city for one day and return to Kathmandu to sleep, we want to get to know the city well and we decide to spend the last few days we have left in Nepal there, it has many points of interest.

Last breakfast in Kathmandu, of course, we go to Fresh Bake. We say goodbye to Rabina and her family, who are from Bhaktapur, and she advises us on typical Newar dishes.

Bhaktapur is considered the cultural capital of Nepal and its history dates back to the 8th century.

Bhaktapur

How to get to Bhaktapur

Bhaktapur is only 15 kilometres from Kathmandu. You can get there by taxi or public bus. A taxi from Thamel can cost around 1,100 rupees each way, while the bus is 50 rupees/person/way, you can catch it at Ratna Park and it takes you directly to the centre of Bhaktapur.

We decided to go by taxi as Joaquin is still recovering from his back injury and we go with big backpacks.

Much more orderly and less chaotic than Kathmandu and Patan, Bhaktapur is noted for its Newar architecture, its Durbar Square is probably the most spectacular and the one that suffered the most damage during the 2015 earthquake. The Bhaktapur municipality finances and encourages all buildings that need to be rebuilt to be made with the brick and wood characteristic of Newar architecture. The entrance fee to the city is intended to protect and safeguard this cultural wealth.

Bhaktapur

It takes about half an hour to reach Bhaktapur. The taxi driver takes us to the hostel on payment of the tourist entrance fee of 1,800 rupees. It is very important that you tell them if you are going to be in the city for several days so that you can enter freely without paying the fee again. On this occasion, the validity of the entry ticket is indicated on the ticket, which coincides with the expiry date of the visa. You do not need photographs as in Kathmandu.

We stayed at Hotel Bhaktapur Inn, located on a quiet street ten minutes walk from Durbar Square. Our room is very spacious with three beds and private bathroom. Breakfast is included. We paid 12$ per night.

Hotel Bhaktapur Inn

If there's one thing that makes Bhaktapur special, it's the number of stunning courtyards and nooks and crannies you'll find where you least expect them. Many of its restaurants are located in these privileged places. We help you to discover them.

First visit, Durbar Square.

Durbar Square

With no traffic and hardly any noise we arrived at Durbar Square. We are at a loss for words to describe the beauty of this place.

Whta to see in Bhaktapur Durbar Square

1. Palace of 55 windows and the Golden Gate. It is worth entering even though access to the main temple is forbidden to non-Hindus. It consists of several rooms and a pond with a fountain. If there is one thing worth admiring about Newar architecture, it is the woodwork, which will leave you impressed.

Golden Gate and Palace

2. Shilu Mahadev, a Shikhara-style temple dedicated to Shiva. It is the tallest temple in the square.

3. Statues of the twin lions. It is not clear whether they were protecting a temple or are simply part of the square.

4. Statue of King Bhupatindra Malla, in front of the Palace of 55 windows. The Malla dynasty from India ruled Nepal from the 12th to the 18th century, a golden age for the country, mainly in the Kathmandu Valley.

Durbar Square

5. Vatsala Temple, a stone Hindu temple with the Taleju (barking) bell.

6. Pashupatinath Temple, next to the Golden Gate.

7. Siddhi Laxmi Temple. Dedicated to the tantric goddess Siddhi Laxmi, it is located on the side of the royal palace in Durbar Square. Its construction follows the shikara model of northern India.

8. The Taleju or Barking Dog Bell. In front of the Palace of 55 windows.

Taleju

You can't miss these but there are dozens of temples worthy of admiration.

A stage is being set up next to the lions, the Indra Jatra festival is approaching and there are people dressed in traditional costumes everywhere.

Indra Jatra

Very interesting and off the square heading west past the ATM on the left hand side is a curious temple known as the Elephant Erotic Temple, under the roof of the small temple of Shiva Parvati there is a very interesting erotic representation of wood carvings.

Elephant Erotic Temple

If you continue along this street, known as Juju dhau or King Yoghurt Street, a kind of mixture of cottage cheese and yoghurt that is delicious and a must try, you will come to an area of three ponds where the locals enjoy their leisure time and which once supplied the city.

Juju dhau

We stopped for lunch in Durbar Square at the Yomari restaurant opposite the Royal Palace. The restaurant has a beautiful newar style gallery with wood carvings where we tried the main newar dishes, special newari set and chatamari set. The first is a kind of dal bhat but all the food is raw with curd or yoghurt. The second is a kind of pizza with a lot of spices. Very tasty.

Special newari set

Another place not to be missed in Bhaktapur is Taumadhi Square.

To get there, just follow the paved path from Durbar Square. The Bhairabnath and Tilmadhav Narayan temples with their multiple roofs and rectangular shape stand out in this impressive square.

Taumadhi square

However, it is the most impressive temple is the Nyatapola that stands out above the rest. This pagoda-shaped temple is the tallest temple built in Nepal. It consists of five floors representing the five elements: earth, fire, water, water, air and ether.

The stairs leading up to the entrance have imposing sculptures of guardians, elephants, lions and dogs on either side. It is well worth the climb to see the square from above.

Nyatapola

A good place to look out over the square is the Heritage Square opposite, with little tables with a view where you can take a break.

Musicians are everywhere, singing and dancing, enlivening the streets, as part of the Indra Jatra festival.

Market

Another must-see in Bhaktapur is the Pottery Square, located between Durbar and Taumadhi Square.

This little corner has a lot of charm. They still have the traditional kilns used for pottery. Beforehand, they dry them in the sun, which makes this square a very special place.

Pottery Square

The Dattatraya or Tachupal Tole Square in Bhaktapur is definitely not to be missed.

It is the oldest square in the city where you will find the main craftsmen and museums of wood carving and goldsmithing.

What to see in Bhaktapur Dattatraya Square

1. The Dattatraya Temple. It is said that it was built with the wood of a single tree and it is remarkable not only for its dimensions but also for its guardians. It is dedicated to Dattatraya, a hybrid between Visnu, Brahma and Shiva. In front of it the columns have as their base some curious turtles.

2. The Bhimsen Temple, a two-storey temple dedicated to the god of commerce.

3. The Peacock Window, a beautiful wood carving that is somewhat hidden as it is not exactly in the square. It is in a street that leads off to the right behind the Dattatraya Temple in front of the Peacock Shop.

Looking for the window we find the owner of the Peacock Shop, a very nice man who has a whole museum in his own house with relics from the 8th century. He sells handmade paper with prints from very old printing presses. A real craftsmanship that we invite you to discover.

Dattatraya Temple

It starts to rain heavily and we take shelter in one of the most beautiful courtyards we have ever seen, inside, a Korean restaurant, what more could you ask for.

If there is one thing that makes Bhaktapur special, it is the number of impressive courtyards and nooks and crannies you find where you least expect them. Many of its restaurants are located in these privileged places.

Ventana pavo real

We had dinner at Peaceful restaurant, japchae (noodles) and dolsot bibimpap. The first dish is a kind of clear fried noodles with soy sauce and vegetables. The second is white rice with vegetables and egg. Both dishes are brutal and strangely enough, despite being Korean, they don't sting!