Nepal day 5: Phakding - Namche Bazaar

Submitted by maria on Mon, 18/12/2023 - 10:26

Today's stage takes us from Phakding (2,640 metres) to Namche Bazaar (3,410 metres).

Way to Namche

Way to Namche

 

 

 


Itinerary: Phakding - Monjo - Hillary Bridge - Namche Bazaar

Duration: 6 hours

Linear route

Elevation gain: 1,000 metres

Distance: 14 kms


Tips for good acclimatisation. Good acclimatisation is achieved by drinking plenty of water, walking slowly without fatigue, not climbing more than 500 metres per stage above 3,400 metres and always sleeping below the maximum altitude you have reached that day.

Always remember to take enough water with you, as it takes at least half an hour for the pill to take effect. Sun cream with full protection is essential.

 

Map

Map


 

At 7 am we had breakfast at the Green with delicious Tibetan bread (a kind of cake that tastes like a churro but less sweet and oily with honey or jam) and scrambled eggs with black tea. The teas and herbal teas in Nepal are brutal.

 

Tibetano bread

Tibetano bread

 

 

We slept very well, and although the temperature dropped a lot at night, we were even hot, our sleeping bags are working.

Today's stage is longer and has much more elevation gain, but as they say around here "vistari vistari" slowly to avoid altitude sickness.

 

Mules

Mules

 

 

It is hot, and in these first stages the heat and humidity accompany us, although the temperature does not rise above 18 degrees Celsius. Remember to drink an average of 3-4 litres of water a day to avoid the dreaded altitude sickness and, according to our guide, to avoid aches and pains.

 

Waterfall

Waterfall

 

 

We say goodbye to the hostel family who are very friendly and start the stage. The route is similar to yesterday's, we follow the Dudh Khosi river, crossing it several times over impressive suspension bridges.

The landscape is very wooded, it is beautiful, especially when we see some snow-capped peaks peeking out.

Just past Tok Tok there is a section of the traditional trail that has suffered landslides and while it is being repaired we take an alternative, rather muddy path down to the river.

 

Prayer wheels

Prayer wheels

 

 

Before reaching Monjo we enjoy several waterfalls.

 

Waterfall

Waterfall

 

 

We arrive at Monjo, the gateway to Sagarmatha National Park, the Nepali name for Everest. If you go on your own, this is where you pay the entrance fee of 3,000 rupees per person.

 

Stupa

Stupa

 

 

In Monjo there is a three-dimensional representation of the Park.

 

Monjo

Monjo

 

Suspension bridge

Suspension bridge

 

 

From Monjo we head down to the river again in search of a new suspension bridge while passing herds of mules and chopped meat.


We reach the village of Jorsale, where we stop for lunch at Tibet Lodge&Restaurant, ordering dal bhat and black tea. Very tasty.

 

Dal Bhat

Dal Bhat

 

 

We continue on our way, crossing the river again until we reach the Hillary Suspension Bridge, the longest of them all. Nowadays, a new one has been built over the original one, as the access road had problems with landslides. It is amazing how they are able to build such strong bridges. The views from the bridge are breathtaking, at this point two rivers meet and the noise is deafening.

 

Hillary bridge

Hillary bridge

 

 

After the Hillary Bridge the climb to Namche begins. Slowly and with stops to drink water, it is soon done. Halfway up we take a break where there are toilets and a woman selling apples and drinks. It is very common to find toilets along the way as well as people selling apples, snacks and drinks of all kinds. Here we meet María and Sergio.

 

One last push and we arrive at Namche Bazaar. Before arriving, about 200 metres further on, there is another checkpoint where, if you are on your own, you have to register.

 

Namche Bazaar, located at an altitude of 3,410 metres, is the largest town we will find on the entire route, it has all the services you can imagine, sportswear shops, souvenir shops, ATM, bars, restaurants, laundries, lodges... you have everything.

 

Namche Bazaar

Namche Bazaar

 

 

At the entrance gate to Namche there is a washing place where it is common to see locals doing their laundry. There are four water-powered prayer wheels. It is a beautiful village surrounded by impressive mountains such as Tamsherku and Kangaroo.

 

Namche Bazaar

Namche Bazaar

 

 

We stayed at the top of Namche, at the Everest Inn's hotel. Very simple accommodation, twin room with shared bathroom and stunning views of Tamsherku, Kangtega and the Kangaroo from our window. Amazing.

 

Washing place

Washing place

 

 

We have a complimentary tea with Sergio and Maria who are also staying at this lodge.


After resting, taking our last body shower and washing some clothes, we take a short walk around Namche, which is very lively despite the fact that it is the beginning of the season.

We go back to the hostel to play Jenga with Maria, Sergio and their guide Sure who is learning Spanish.  They are experts.


We have dinner together and have a few laughs, they are really nice. At 9 pm we go to sleep, tomorrow is a day of acclimatisation.
 

Views

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Breakfast Green Village Guest House included (650 rupees/pax)
Lunch Tibet Lodge&Restaurant included, tea between 100 and 200 rupees per cup, nepali set veg 650 rupees, with chicken 550 rupees; noodles between 500 and 600 rupees, soups between 400 and 500 rupees, momos between 500 and 650 rupees.
Accommodation and dinner at Everest Inn's hotel included, two rare noodle soups with vegetables and potato and cheese momos (delicious).
Mobile phone recharge: 300 rupeesShower: 400 rupees/pax/apparatus