Nepal day 7: Namche Bazaar - Tengboche

Submitted by maria on Mon, 18/12/2023 - 11:00

Today's stage takes us from Namche Bazaar (3,410m) to Tengboche (3,860m).

Sunrise

Itinerary: Namche Bazaar (3,410 metres) - Lawi Schyasa - Tashinga - Phungi Thenga - Tengboche (3,860 metres)

Distance: 10 kms

Duration: 6 hours

Linear route

Elevation gain: 500 metres

Tips for good acclimatisation. Good acclimatisation is achieved by drinking plenty of water, walking slowly without getting tired, not climbing more than 500 metres per stage above 3,400 metres and always sleeping below the maximum altitude you have reached that day.

Always remember to take enough water with you, as it takes at least half an hour for the pill to take effect. Sun cream with full protection is essential. Batteries run down in the cold, so put them inside your sleeping bag.

Map

Every day we wake up at around 6 am, at dawn, and the view from the room is almost always a luxury.

The sun is shining splendidly, and after breakfast we have toast with jam and butter, an egg (they almost always have one) and potato stew, and refill our water bottles and start our day.

Way to Tengboche

Slowly we climb up to the path that will take us to Tengboche. Like almost all the trekking we go along a wide path, an up and down that the Nepalese call flat, during today the first part is more aerial, we go quite a bit higher than the river and the views of the valley are spectacular.

We stop to take photos at several stupas or chorten, one of which gives us an impressive view, albeit amidst clouds, of Ama Dablam. This 6,812 metre high peak is one of the most beautiful mountains we have ever seen. It was first climbed in 1961 and its name means "necklace of the mother of pearl". Wonderful.

Stupa

We continue up the Dudh Khosi River until we reach the village of Sanasa. Every step we take the scenery becomes more beautiful.

The road is a constant up and down, well we go down more than we go up, we have to get to the river and cross it to face the tough climb to Tengboche.

We make several stops to drink water and enjoy the views. Sometimes we meet María and Sergio and sometimes Miguel and we chat. We were worried about Miguel because we hadn't seen him since Lukla, but although he spent a bad night in Namche he is fine.

Ama Dablam and Lhotse

We arrive at Phungi Thenga and eat at the White Tara Lunch, again dal bhat. In the end it is the dish that gives us the most energy, we are not able to finish it any day. I go into the kitchen to gossip to see if they give me the recipe but there is no way.

If you go on your own in Phungi Thenga there is another checkpoint where you can register.

After lunch we have a long climb to Tengboche. We climb vistari vistari with Sergio and Maria.

It is starting to get cooler and it shows. Little by little we climb until we reach our goal. Once in Tengboche, in our accommodation, we drink a mint tea and rest for a while.

Way to Tengboche

We stayed at Himalaya Inn. Our room is simple and next to the bathrooms. Be careful in the bathrooms because the doors lock inside and outside and I got locked in the bathroom by mistake, thank goodness it was only for about two minutes. Sonam told us that altitude sickness affects people who are often unaware of what they are doing, anyway.

Dal Bhat

What we are lucky about is the view from the room again, we see Everest and Lhotse. Wonderful.

We visit the Tibetan Buddhist monastery of Tengboche and acclimatise by climbing a nearby hill (4,000 metres), the views look good but it gets cloudy and starts to sparkle.

María and Sergio

This hill is located at the foot of the Kantega and Thamserku, and is decorated with several stupas and prayer flags.

Hill

Tengboche Monastery is one of the most famous monasteries in Nepal. Built in 1916, it is one of the main monasteries in the Khumbu region and is said to be one of the highest in the world. It is presided over by a rinpoche (master) who blesses travellers and locals in the area. From its privileged location, it offers visitors unique views of Nuptse, Everest, Tawache and Thamserku.

Monastery

The main building has a prayer hall with a large Buddha statue. All the walls are covered with paintings and tapestries, a place of seclusion and peace.

This monastery or gompa is essential for the Sherpa community as it is a centre of Buddhist education of great importance.

Every afternoon from 4pm the monastery opens its doors for you to visit. It is well worth a visit.

Everest and Lhotse

Around the monastery there are only lodges for the construction of which the monastery itself has had to give permission.

We have dinner at 6.30 pm at our accommodation Himalaya Inn. We try the stew sherpa, a pasta, potato and vegetable stew that is brutal, and noodle soup with vegetables and egg, this time with natural mint infusion.