It dawns without rain, we pack up the flat and go down for breakfast at the Montanha cafe in Largo da Portagem, the toast and coffee are good but the sweets don't convince us.
Marques de Pombal Square
We go to the Bragaparque car park to pick up the car, 14,30€ for one day, what a price! Coimbra is quite an expensive city compared to the rest of the Portuguese cities.
We continue along the motorway towards our new destination Lisbon.
Avenue of Freedom
We go straight to the Marqués de Pombal car park in the gardens of Eduardo VII Park, it's centrally located, cheap and convenient so you don't have to wander around the city.
If you book the car park in advance, the app offers you a very interesting discount.
Lisbon is a fascinating city, with steep, narrow streets lined with trams, cobbled squares and stately buildings on the banks of the Tajo river. It has suffered fires, earthquakes, economic crises, revolutions, dictatorships... a city that is reborn every time more modern and beautiful.
Rossio train station
We leave the car park and walk down Avenue of Freedom, full of boutiques and luxury hotels, to the Baixa and Rossio areas where we are struck by the Estaçao do Rossio with a beautiful Manueline façade that highlights its horseshoe arches and spiral towers. Trains to Sintra depart from here. Opposite is the National Theatre of Dona Maria II.
Rossio train station
The cobbled Dom Pedro IV square has plenty of atmosphere but beware of hustlers, especially around the Church of Santo Domingo. There is always someone demonstrating under the statue of Dom Pedro.
National Theatre of Dona Maria II
We have to go to Bica to pick up the keys to the flat, so we continue along Rua Aurea until we reach the Santa Justa lift. A beautiful wrought iron structure houses this vertical lift, initially activated by a steam engine, the work of a disciple of Eiffel. Not to be missed.
Santa Justa lift
Santa Justa lift
The streets of the Baixa are dedicated to the different trades that were once carried out in this area: shoemakers, gilders, cutlers and fishmongers.
Between Rua Santa Justa and Rua do Carmo there is a striking work of art of pelicans made from recycled material by Bordalo II that is not to be missed.
Pelicans
Continuing along Rua do Carmo towards Rua Garrett, we enter the Chadio neighbourhood. The streets are crowded with people shopping, until we reach Luis de Camoes square. We find a beautiful old bookshop Livraria Sá da Costa and have a look around. Almost opposite Livraria Bertrand is also a café. Don't miss it.
Bookshop
We continue to the Bica elevator. We go down to Rua da Boavista 78 to pick up the keys to the flat.
Bica elevator
Tram
Tram
It's time for lunch so we look for a restaurant. We arrive at Rosa street in Cais do Sodré, a small street with the floor painted pink with trendy restaurants and bars. All full so we finally eat in the nearby Sao Paulo square at the restaurant Cuatro Estaciones. In the same square there is an old kiosk that serves super cool drinks.
Rosa street
Old kiosk
Sao Paulo square
After lunch we walked along Avda. da Ribeira das Naus, a great avenue perfect for a stroll overlooking the Tajo river, to Praça do Comércio, Lisbon's most famous square. It is huge, cobbled, with 18th century arcades where on Sundays there is a craft market. In the centre is the statue of Dom José I and in the middle of the arcades is the Rua Augusta arch. A must on your visit to the city.
Praça do Comercio
Praça do Comercio
We continue to the Alfama district, which is considered the most traditional neighbourhood. Most people visit it by tram number 28, but there are too many people and we prefer to walk. We follow the walking route offered by the Lonely Planet guide to Portugal. First stop is the Sé de Lisboa, the fortress-like cathedral. The entrance fee is 8€/pax.
Cathedral
Cathedral
We continue uphill to the Church of Santa Lucia and the Santa Lucia viewpoint. A beautiful tiled terrace with benches, flowers and spectacular views of the river estuary.
Views from Santa Lucia viewpoint
From here along the Rua Santiago we climb up to the Sao Jorge Castle. A spectacular fortress surrounded by narrow, cobbled streets, the wall and the entrance gates to the castle are still preserved, passing in front of the Solar de los Mouros. There are too many people but we don't go in although it looks good.
Alfama
Alfama
Access to the Castle
Alfama
Alfama
We had a drink at Café 28, which is decorated as if it were a tram. It is located in Largo Santa Cruz do Castelo.
Café 28
Musicians on the balcony
We continue to the market known as Feira da Ladra or thieves' market, but they are packing up and we see very few stalls.
Solar de los Mouros
Alfama
Nearby are the National Pantheon and the Mosteiro de Sao Vicente de Fora, in Graça.
National Pantheon
We continue to the Miradouro da Graça, with good views of the city. There is a small garden with large pine trees and a kiosk where you can have a drink. The surrounding buildings are beautiful.
Graça
Views from Graça viewpoint
Finally we reach the last point of the route, the Miradouro da Senhora do Monte. The views from here are spectacular. An essential place to see the sunset.
Views from Miradouro da Senhora do Monte
From here our flat is very close (Rua Andrade 45) so the girls go shopping and the boys go to the car park to pick up their backpacks in a taxi. The taxi driver almost killed them because of the speed he was going.
Lisbon
The flat is located in Rua Andrade 45, very centrally located just 20 minutes walk from Rossio. It is an impressive flat, big, modern, new and clean and we have a small terrace which we enjoyed a lot.
Montanha Cafeteria: 20€ breakfast 6 pax.
Parking Bragaparkes Coimbra: 14,30€ 24 hours.
Tolls from Coimbra to Lisbon: 14€/car.
Santa Justa elevator: 5€/pax.
Lunch at Restaurant Cuatro Estaciones: menu 8€/pax.
Taxi 7,30 from Marqués de Pombal car park to the flat.
Supermarket Lidl: 27 €.
Accommodation: Apartment Altido for 6 pax 128€/day (21€/pax).
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