We get up early, today we have a long journey to the Peneda Geres National Park and a lot of stops planned.
Chaves
We leave in the direction of Vinhais until we reach Chaves, which also belongs to the region of Tras Os Montes.
We park easily, although in a blue area, in the centre. Later on we will discover that there is free parking under the Torre da Menagem and in the Jardim do Tabolado area.
Chaves
Chaves is known for its thermal waters but with the heat we prefer to take a walk and get to know the city.
Chaves urban art
We want to have a drink and sit on a terrace in the General Silveira square and order two coffees and a Chaves cake, not knowing that instead of a sweet it is a typical snack of the Chaves cuisine, it can be beef or pork inside a puff pastry, we did not like it very much, too industrial, we will have to try it somewhere else.
A man parks his bicycle, he is the sharpener, we have not seen one for a long time.
The sharpener
Coffee in Portugal is very rich and very cheap.
We continue along Rua Santo Antonio, the main street in the old town and one of the most commercial streets in Chaves, until we reach the Ponte Trajano. This is a Roman bridge that crosses the River Tamega and links the two parts of the city. It has two Roman landmarks in the centre of the bridge as it was an important place in the Via Augusta that linked Braga with Astorga.
Shop in Rua Santo Antonio
Roman milestone
We crossed the bridge and visited the Church of San Joao de Jesus. We took the opportunity to buy a knife in a hardware store and a homemade chorizo in a nearby butcher's shop, in front of the Chaves Public Garden.
Trajano bridge
The bank of the river Tamega is a nice area to walk around so we cross again and visit the J Tabolado Garden and the Caldas.
We return to the centre to get lost among the narrow streets and reach the Chaves Castle and its Homage Tower (nowadays Military Museum), surrounded by gardens and ancient walls from which to enjoy wonderful views of the city.
Homage Tower
Homage Tower
We return to Camoes Square, one of the most beautiful in Chaves, you can visit the Church of La Misericordia, the Church of Santa Maria la Mayor, the Museum of the Flaviense Region, the tourist office and the Town Hall.
We have read that close to here is the Pastelaria Maria, which boasts of offering the best bread and cakes in Chaves, so let's go there. The building is charming with bright colours and flowers everywhere. Indeed, the pasteles de Chaves and bread are delicious but we also bought another typical product of the area, the Folar de Chaves, a kind of Hornazo salmantino with bacon, loin and sausage inside a one kilo bread. Delicious.
Pastelaria María
We return to the General Silveira Square by walking the streets to visit the Forte de Sao Francisco. Nowadays it is a hotel but you can cross the drawbridge and visit the gardens.
Sao Francisco Fort
We take the car to Montalegre. We cross second and third ports but the landscape is beautiful.
Firvidas
We stop in a small village called Firvidas and visit the Firvidas waterfall thanks to the instructions of a local woman who almost went in through the window to look inside, jejeje.
Firvidas Waterfall
Mill
It is a village of cobbled floors and granite houses. You have to leave the car in the outskirts and walk about two kilometres to the waterfall but it is worth it. There is a restored mill on the way.
Next stop Montalegre. Its castle on a hill stands out. You can climb one of the towers, the view is worth it.
Montalegre Castle
Views from the tower
We eat by the river in the park of Cávado our Folar, I think it will last us a few days.
On the way to the Peneda Geres National Park we choose the road that will take us to the beautiful region of Barroso, specifically to Pitoes das Junias. At first we were not going to go because the kilometres are very slow and we have no reservation in the Park but we decided to take a chance.
Folar de Chaves
Pitoes das Junias is a beautiful village in a spectacular setting.
First we visit the Mosteiro de Santa Maria. An abandoned monastery (the church is still in good condition) in a beautiful place that takes you to other times. You can see all the rooms now in ruins, but you get an idea of how big it was and the life in the monastery. It is certainly worth it.
Pitoes Monastery
Pitoes Monastery
Pitoes Monastery
Pitoes Monastery
From here, a path leads to a waterfall viewpoint. They have facilitated access with an endless footbridge of stairs that connect with other access routes to other villages.
Waterfall
On the way back to Pitoes we get lost in its cobbled streets with typical houses of the area, washing place, communal forge, haystacks, and the Church of Sao Rosendo.
We have a beer at the Rato do Eiró café. What a wonderful place. In this area it is common to sell heather honey and rye bread.
Pitoes
Pitoes
Pitoes
Pitoes
We take the car again, next stop Peneda Geres National Park. We arrive at Geres at dusk, this area of the park is the most accessible and therefore the one with the most people. There is a large lagoon where you can practice water sports.
Campsite Vidoeiro
We are staying at Campsite Vidoeiro Geres, inside the Park. It is not as quiet as Cepo Verde nor are the facilities as new but the enclave is spectacular, next to a river in a forest of vine trees that you can ask for more.
It does not have a super but they sell some things like bread and ice. It has a bar and free wifi.
Razor or Faca open: 7 €/unit.
Chouriço caseiro: 13 €/kg.
Pastelaria Maria in Chaves: 2 cakes from Belém, 1 folar and a cake from Chaves 15 €.
Montalegre: free castle.
2 small beers montealegre 2€.
1 beer and 1 cola in Pitoes 2.40€.
1 large water carafe 1.20€.
Camping Vidoeiro: 2 third party beers 2,40€.
Accommodation: Campsite Vidoeiro Geres 29 € two nights two pax.
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