Day 2. Poas Volcano and La Fortuna

Submitted by maria on Sat, 10/09/2022 - 09:50

Today we will visit the Poas Volcano on our way to our next destination, La Fortuna.

Poas volcano

Despite having gone to bed late we get up at 6.00 in the morning. It is a sunny day and we can enjoy the view from the terrace for breakfast.

On the farm they have small animals, chickens, a rabbit that behaves like a cat and two peacocks.

The typical breakfast (gallo pinto) starts at 7.30am but as we want to be at the volcano first thing in the morning we ask them if they can give us something quicker. We have coffee, fruit and biscuits and off we go.

Poas volcano

To get to Poas Volcano from Alajuela there are two roads, one more direct and only for 4x4 and the other a little longer but suitable for any vehicle and with a good road surface.

At the beginning the navigator takes us on the more direct 146 until we reach the Guatuza area where it starts to get more complicated. In spite of being asphalted due to the steep slope, in the last 10km section, the use of a 4x4 is obligatory, there is a sign on the road indicating it, but we asked and they advised us against it. We turn back and take the 146 until we reach Poasito and take the 120 which is currently the official road to get to the Park. You can also take the 712 from Alajuela.

Impacts

Park tickets can be purchased online through SINAC or at the entrance ticket office. Booking is advisable, as capacity is limited and early in the morning is when you are most likely to see the volcano clear and when there are usually the most people. As the morning progresses it gets cloudy, although you may be lucky and see it clear. Opening hours are from 8 am to 4 pm.

The path from the car park to the viewpoint is very easy and is asphalted. There are toilets and a cafeteria at the entrance.

Once at the viewpoint, all you have to do is enjoy yourself. The views are spectacular. The crater is immense with a lagoon in the central part of a light blue colour that contrasts with the areas of fumaroles where the yellow of the sulphur contrasts.

Lava flows

In the viewpoint itself (with several levels) you can witness the impacts of the projectiles that the volcano itself has been expelling throughout its life and the strata it has been forming.

On the left side of the cone you can see the last lava flows. The volcano is still active but at rest, the latest records of seismic activity are from 2019.

Strata

Just before reaching the viewpoint there is a path on the right hand side that leads you through the cloud forest to the Botos Lagoon. An ancient crater that is now extinct. The route is circular, about 5 kms. You have the chance to see birds such as hummingbirds and thrushes and to walk through the wonderful cloud forest.

Botos lagoon

We take the car again to head to our next destination, La Fortuna, where we will visit the Fortuna Waterfall.

We retrace our steps back to road 126 where we stop to buy some delicious strawberries. In this area it is common to be offered strawberries (sometimes with dulce de leche or chocolate) and mamones eaten by weight.

On this road is La Paz Waterfall Gardens. This complex has an easy-access trail to visit several waterfalls. Admission is $40/pax. If you choose not to enter the road, you can enjoy one of these impressive waterfalls for free, often with stalls selling food and souvenirs. At this time of year the waterfalls are in full flow and look stunning.

La Paz waterfall

We arrive at La Fortuna de San Carlos. This small town is situated in an incomparable setting with the Arenal Volcano in the background, which we will visit tomorrow. We spend the afternoon enjoying the spectacular La Fortuna Waterfall.

You can get your tickets online through the website or at the ticket office. You don't need a 4x4 to get there. Opening hours from 8am to 4pm. Parking is free and guarded. There are toilets, showers and changing rooms at the entrance. At the entrance they give you an identification bracelet.

Arenal volcano

About a hundred metres from the entrance there is a viewpoint with spectacular views of the 70 metre high waterfall. From here to get to the base of the waterfall it is a twenty minute walk through the forest up more than 500 steps. It is well worth the effort.

Once at the base you can swim, but be careful, because depending on the force of the water it can be dangerous at times. There is a guard always watching to make sure you don't get too close. If you don't dare to swim in the pool, there is another much quieter swimming area a little further down.

From the viewpoint

Bathing really should be compulsory, the setting is beautiful.

Once you have relaxed you have to climb the 530 steps back up to the entrance. Don't forget to use insect repellent because mosquitoes take every opportunity. Once at the top you can have a drink in the bar-restaurant. The prices are not cheap at all so ask before you order because we didn't and had the most expensive beers of the trip - 4,000 colones each for Imperial Light.

La Fortuna waterfall

Beach

It starts to rain torrentially and we take the opportunity to drive to the El Chollín thermal area. To get there you drive through La Fortuna in the direction of the Arenal Volcano National Park.

At the Tabacón hot springs there is a guarded parking area (as they call the car park) on the side of the road, where you can leave your car for 3,000 colones.

The hot springs are famous in this area and there are options for all budgets, from Tabacón Thermal and Resort Spa for 90$/pax (although if you stay here you have the hot springs included in the price of your stay, which is around 500$/room), to others in between like Ecotermales for 45$/pax or El Chollín, which is free although you have to pay for parking.

El Chollin

Enjoying the hot springs of the Tabacón River in the Chollín is one of the few free things you can do in Costa Rica and it is well worth it. You can enjoy a purely Costa Rican atmosphere in the middle of nature. We recommend that when you get to the river you walk along the path on the right bank up the river because you will find fewer people and the pools are a little deeper.

A magnificent place to relax after an intense day.

It is not advisable to stay in the water for more than half an hour, but there are people who are capable of spending the whole day in the water, according to our friend Jairo, the car park guard. You don't need to take too many things into the river either, we went down with our swimming costume, car keys and mobile phone in a waterproof case. The parking guards are on duty until 9.3 pm, so we recommend you to visit the hot springs while your car is under surveillance.

El Chollin

On our way back to La Fortuna we were very lucky to see a sloth! We stopped on the road (although it is not advisable) next to a group of people with telephoto lenses and we were able to see it. What a marvellous sight.

At night (at 5-5.30 it is dark) we arrived at our accommodation, Habitación Verde Arenal. It belongs to a private owner and has two flats, one in the upper part of the building and another one in the lower part which is bigger and has two bedrooms and kitchen facilities. It has parking inside the building. Clean and economical.

It is located close to the main road of La Fortuna so you have bars, restaurants and supermarkets close by and the centre is less than 5 minutes walking distance.

We buy dried fruit and nuts and some snacks in the supermarket opposite the main square for tomorrow's visit to the park.

Dinner at La Fortuna Pub Restaurant with honey-mustard wings and two drinks with live music.