Breakfast at Antico Caffe Ruschena overlooking the Tiber river, sweets and cappuccino, very tasty although a little more expensive than Caffe Prati which is closed today for weekly rest.
Rome
Our first stop today will be Campo dei Fiori, a beautiful square that every morning (except Sundays) hosts a bustling food, flower and vegetable market. Very lively and colourful. In the evening you can enjoy restaurants and terraces.
Campo dei Fiori
In medieval times it became the centre of the city, where tournaments and popular festivals were held. The surrounding streets still bear the names of the craft guilds.
From here we walk to Largo di Torre Argentina, where a lot of cats roam freely, to reach one of the most curious and interesting churches in the city that Marta, the owner of our accommodation, has recommended to us, the Basilica of San Clemente. Don't miss it.
Largo di Torre Argentina
It is three temples in one, in its three naves the frescoes narrate the life of San Clemente. Its state of conservation is excellent.
On the first level is the current 12th century basilica. It retains its medieval atmosphere despite the Baroque additions. Its main attraction is the mosaic in the apse and the Chapel of Saint Catherine, one of the first Renaissance works in Rome. The medieval atrium and the Schola Cantorum also stand out.
Basilica of San Clemente
On the second level is the 4th-century basilica, which is wider than the upper level and contains medieval frescoes depicting the life of Saint Clement.
Frescoes
The third level corresponds to a 1st century building, where the Mithraeum, the place of worship of this ancient oriental divinity, stands out.
For us it is one of the most incredible churches in Rome.
Basilica of San Clemente
We continue to the Basilica of St. John Lateran, the first church to be built in Rome as well as being its cathedral. It is part of a great monumental complex together with the great obelisk, the Lateran Palace and the Sanctuary of the Holy Stairs.
Basilica of St. John Lateran
It is the work of the master Borromini and is located on Mount Celio, a place of pilgrimage. Its interior is monumental but the Lateran Cloister is impressive, a real treasure as well as the Baptistery known as San Giovanni in Fonte al Laterano, contemporary of the first church. Don't miss it.
Baptistery
Interior of Basilica of St. John Lateran
Our recommendation for lunch in this area is the restaurant Taverna dei Quaranta, a very tasty no-frills restaurant, or Trattoría Luciano Luzzi, delicious pasta and pizza, well worth the wait.
Interior of Basilica of St. John Lateran
After lunch we visit the Basilica of St. John and St. Paul with a beautiful bell tower. It was begun in the 4th century and now houses the mortal remains of St. Paul of the Cross. It is beautiful.
Basilica of St. John and St. Paul
Basilica of St. John and St. Paul
We are lucky enough to see a wedding.
Wedding in Basilica of St. John and St. Paul
Circus Maximus
We continued to the Circus Maximus. This great colossus had a capacity for almost 300,000 spectators. The famous chariot races were held here, as well as other performances such as foot races or battles that reproduced glorious victories of the Empire. The games and races were public, just like the theatres and amphitheatres of Rome.
Although not much remains of this construction, you can get an idea of its complexity and monumentality.
Circus Maximus
Near the Circus Maximus, a ten minute walk away, you will find a curious and at the same time indispensable place in your visit to Rome, the Buco della Serratura, a lock that hides the secret of Rome.
Buco della Serratura
On the Aventine Hill is the Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta, decorated with motifs of the Order of Malta. In this square in front of a green gate (the entrance door to the historical seat of the Grand Priory of Rome of the Order of Malta) you can see through the old keyhole an incredible image, that of the Dome of St. Peter's Basilica in the Vatican in the background of the Gardens of the Order.
Buco della Serratura
Interestingly, through this lock you can see three independent territories, the Vatican, the Italian State and the Military Order of Malta.
From the nearby Savello Park or Orange Garden, you can enjoy wonderful views of the city.
Views from Orange Garden
We spent the afternoon in Trastevere. One of our favourite neighbourhoods in Rome. A colourful, bohemian and quiet neighbourhood, where you can enjoy a pleasant stroll and enjoy its terraces and small shops.
Views from Orange Garden
In the Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere you will find the Basilica of Santa Maria, founded in the 2nd century, still preserving its medieval character.
It is a delight to wander through these streets and some of the city's best restaurants are located here. We recommend Antica Osteria Da Giovanni, basic and inexpensive dishes, and Da Enzo A 29, cheap and tasty food but reservations are necessary.
Trastevere
You can also visit the Temple of San Pietro in Montorio or go up to the Janiculum lookout point with spectacular views of the city over the Gianicolo hills. If you don't feel like walking, you can take the bus up.
We leave the neighbourhood by crossing the Tiber over one of Rome's most charming and oldest bridges, the Ponte di Sisto.
Padlocks in Rome
It is very typical in Rome to see padlocks, known as love padlocks, which couples in love in Rome place in imitation of the protagonists of Federico Moccia's Italian book "Ho voglia di te" (I'm in love with you). Although the tradition began on the Milvio Bridge over the Tiber River, it is common to see them on other bridges and even in other Italian cities.
We have dinner at one of the best pizzerias in Rome Baffeto, there is always a queue so other nearby and very appetizing options are the Montecarlo or the Panettoni.
Castelo Sant Angelo
It is the White Night in Rome, an event that is also celebrated in Spain once a year when museums and monuments are open until two in the morning, you can imagine the atmosphere. Lucky us.
Accommodation: Marta Guest House 90€ triple room with bathroom.
Entrance fee Basilica of San Clemente: 10€/pax.
Entrance to the Basilica of San Giovanni in Laterano: free.
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